To catch you up on my first two weeks in Thailand, I have written a quick sum of my time. Before I explain anything, one must understand in Thailand a beer is less than 2 dollars, bucket (mickey of vodka and Red Bull) costs $10, or for the adventurous $17 buys a mind-boggling mushroom shake. That’s a mind-fuck one buys at the bar, completely legal. Every night there are parties either on the beach or in the jungle, where thousands of travellers attend, all drunk, excited and covered in glow-paint. The beaches are filled with fire shows that have flames flying dangerously close to the crowds. And for the brave (or drunk), flaming skip ropes are constant entertainment. Hence my two weeks are mostly a drunken blur, full of hangovers, burns, and hundreds of Pad Thais.
I started my
trip by landing in Bangkok, where I stayed on the backpacker filled Khao San
Road; which one might remember from the movie “The Hangover Part II”. This road is where all the perverted tales of
Bangkok were born. It spawns only 300
meters or so, but packs in hundreds of bars, shops, stalls, hotels, obnoxious
salesman, street vendors and anything else that empties a tourist’s
wallet. And at night the road is a
non-stop party, crowded with drunken vacationers that keep going till the next
morning. Not to say that the famed city
isn’t as morbidly delightful as one thinks, yet I was disappointed as seemed to
be the kind of place one enjoys with a group. On my own the hustle and bustle was
too much and made it troublesome to meet others; and even in a city as warped
as Bangkok, its never fun to party alone (unless you want to pay of course, as that
is something Bangkok can offer rather cheaply, I hear). It wasn’t till my last
day in Bangkok that I had found a few friends, and ended up taking part in the
insanity. Therefore, my send off from
the crazy-city ended on a high note, even though I blew through three days
budget.
After Bangkok, my
first stop was in Koh Phangnan, an island in the south east of Thailand. Now Kho Phangnan earned its fame from hosting
the monthly Full Moon Party, an all night rave on the beach that brings in
crowds of up to 30, 000. I spent five days
on the island, or rather five nights, as all of them consisted of over-drinking,
over-puking and days of sleep and hangover remedying. I was staying in a ratty-old bungalow on the
beach, with a broken toilet and a cold shower, though I didn’t mind at all. In
my resort I befriended a Finnish couple and two Swiss guys, who I partied with
most every night. Between the binge
drinking, I did find opportunity to fulfill my adventurous side. I rented a scooter and explored the island’s
jungles, finding waterfalls, temples and even a few elephants. After five days, I explored most of the
island, partied in all the bars, beaches, and even attended a rave in the
jungle. Hungry for something new, I felt
it was time to move on.
After Koh
Phangan, I took the ferry over to a smaller island called Koh Tao. Koh Tao is known for cheap scuba diving, and
relaxed lifestyle. Koh Tao itself looked
like a beach town, which appeared to be squished, in to a labyrinth like
maze. It had a very laid-back feel,
which suited me well. The thin side
streets were laden with small bamboo
shops and stalls, creating an ocean-side atmosphere.
I was luckily
enough to find cheap accommodation in a hostel, which granted me the
opportunity to meet my second group. There
was a girl from Germany, another from Australia and a guy from different part
of Aus. We partied on the beach again,
but the more relaxed kind-of partying that I prefer, the type that starts off
with a beer around a table and works its way to a drunken round of flaming skip-ropes
and skinny dipping.
In the days the
German, Aussie guy and I explored the island, renting scooters and discovering
the inner jungles. We took these bikes
to there limits flying down the muddy jungle roads, pushing them up steep hills
and finding spectacular view points of the island and it’s beaches. At the end of the day we found a small,
hidden beach-cove down that was mostly empty.
We rented masks and went snorkeling, encountering incredible spots where
we were surrounded by coral blanketed boulders and thousands of tropical fish.
After Koh Tao, The
Aussie guy and I grabbed the night boat to Rea Leh. By night boat, I meant what one would imagine
Noah’s Arc to be if it were filled with backpackers. We were shoved into a
wooden ship, which was lacking beds or enough room for everyone to lie
down. So, I was forced to sleep on the
outer deck, which was actually not too bad.
One can’t complain about being drifted off to sleep by the ships gentle
rocking, the sounds of the ocean, or by watching the stars, sans air pollution.
We started my days in Rea Leh in as ridiculous a fashion as one could. We made the foolish decision not to take the $2 taxi boat to the other side of the island, but too instead hike through the jungle and over the mountain with all of our baggage. And by mountain, I mean a mountain. After the hike, we found ourselves a bungalow in the centre of the small town called Tom Sai Bay. What is incredible about Tom Sai Bay is that it sits by ocean, surrounded by mountains, while being in the depth of the wildest jungle. You can smell the beach, while listening to monkeys! Pure awesomeness. What was even more interesting, were the mountains as they weren’t like that which one imagines; but appearing as if someone used a cookie-cutter and left just a tall skinny cliff. These cliffs even rose out of the ocean making a beautiful vista, and my favorite part of Thailand I’ve seen to date
On my last day
in Rae Leh the Aussie, his friends and I, decided to go for a trek to see some
sort of hidden lagoon. Now being the
responsible man that I am, I brought no water, crappy, ripped skater shoes that
didn’t tie up, and of course my camera; the only thing, I’d think about. What
we thought would be a normal hike, turned out to be something quite different. As we journeyed into the jungle, we ran out of
path, and realized that the route was up over a cliff. We climbed up, finding each rising to be more challenging
than the last. At the top of the cliff, the
route then travels down a cavern into a centre clearing, therefore I found
myself dangling from a rope as I climbed down the cliff. The distance from the start of the hike to
finish was no more than 2 Km, but it took us 4 hours. In the end we made our way to this hidden lagoon
within a cavern, and a viewpoint that could see the whole of the island. The
view was truly incredible; it revealed the entire bay, and all the cliffs
surrounding it. Not to bore you with the rest of the story but on the way back
I did slip and slice my head open, all was good, as it wasn’t too deep. On the
plus side while cleaning the wound I got to make quite the bloody cloud in the
ocean, it looked cool.
Well that was my
first two weeks in Thailand full of partying, meeting people and a bit of
adventure, but to be honest I didn’t find what I was looking for. The islands were all too touristy, too western
and too over-done. There was no
authenticity, no realism and that is what I wanted to experience. So I am now on a bus heading through Bangkok
and up to the gateway to the north, Cheing Mei.